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  </channel><item rdf:about="https://www.joanwestenberg.com/dont-become-a-connoisseur/">
    <title>Don't Become a Connoisseur.</title>
    <dc:date>2025-12-08T20:05:16+00:00</dc:date>
    <link>https://www.joanwestenberg.com/dont-become-a-connoisseur/</link>
    <dc:creator>robertogreco</dc:creator><description><![CDATA[[video version:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F1D6kPJMDe8 ]

"One of the great pleasures of my life is a bacon double cheeseburger. The simpler the better. Meat, cheese, a good pickle, a lug of ketchup and some sizzling bacon. There's nothing particularly refined about it. And there's not much I'd choose to eat instead of it, whether I can get one from McDonalds, Burger King or a corner diner.

I'll say it plainly: I do not consider myself a connoisseur of anything. I am neither an epicure nor an aesthete. I like the things I like, and I like 'em simple and (where possible) I like 'em cheap.

Connoisseurship is widely understood to be a good thing: we call it a mark of sophistication - a form of self-improvement that deepens your relationship with beauty and pleasure.

I think this is almost exactly backwards.

In fact, I've started to believe that developing "refined taste" is one of the most reliable ways to make yourself worse off.

Let me explain.

Someone decides to "get into" wine, coffee, whiskey, or any other domain where refined taste is possible // encouraged. They read books, subscribe to newsletters, join clubs, and begin paying attention to what they're consuming instead of just consuming it.

Within a couple of years they have developed what they proudly call "a palate."

They have also, if they're being honest, stopped enjoying approximately 90% of the options available at normal human price points.

The cheap stuff they used to consume happily now tastes "thin" or "unbalanced" or possesses some technical flaw that their newly trained senses cannot ignore.

And yes, the wine expert experiences rapture at a great Burgundy that the casual drinker can never access. The trained musician hears structure and beauty in a symphony that the untrained ear misses entirely.

But I think we massively underestimate the costs and overestimate the benefits.

You spend enormous amounts of time and mental energy developing your discernment; you read, you practice, you compare, you discuss. This is time you could have spent doing almost anything else, including simply enjoying the thing you're trying to become expert at.

Simply: the aspiring coffee connoisseur who spends 200 hours learning to distinguish processing methods could have spent those 200 hours just drinking coffee and enjoying the hell out of it.

Then, once you've developed your refined taste, you've created an expensive new preference for yourself. Where before you were satisfied with a $12 bottle of wine or a $3 cup of coffee, you now need a $60 bottle or an $8 pour from a specialty roaster to achieve the same level of satisfaction.

You've shifted your hedonic baseline upward without actually capturing any more total pleasure from the experience. You are, in almost every way, worse off.

The casual coffee drinker has expectations that hover somewhere around "hot, contains caffeine." Almost every cup of coffee clears this bar.

The connoisseur has expectations calibrated to the best coffee they've ever encountered, which means almost every cup falls short.

You've traded a world where 90% of coffee is acceptable for a world where 10% of coffee is acceptable. This is not an improvement.

So why do people keep attempting to leap into the connoisseur category?

It's not a complicated question to answer.

Refined taste is a form of social currency. When you can discourse knowledgeably about single-origin chocolate or Japanese denim, you're signaling membership in a particular, educated, cultured, upper-middle-class tribe. You're demonstrating that you have the leisure time to develop these refined preferences, the disposable income to indulge them, and the social connections to learn the right vocabulary and opinions.

Connoisseur-ship is, basically, a very elaborate and expensive form of peacocking.

Which would be fine, I suppose, if people were honest about it. We pretend the acquisition of refined taste is a form of self-improvement. But what if it's mostly just competitive consumption?

Imagine you could take a pill that would give you all the functional benefits of the improvement without the social signaling value. Would you still want it?

If you could take a pill that would make cheap wine taste exactly as good to you as expensive wine, would you take it?

I think most honest people would say yes. The expensive wine doesn't actually contain more hedonic value; you've simply trained yourself to require more expensive inputs to achieve the same output. The pill would be pure upside.

But I think there are more than a few professed connoisseurs who would find the idea repulsive.

I'll admit: there really is something wonderful about understanding a complex domain, about being able to perceive distinctions that others miss, about having the vocabulary to articulate your experiences precisely. I don't want to deny this entirely.

But the joy of mastery is portable; it doesn't need to attach itself to consumption goods that will raise your cost of living and narrow your sources of pleasure.

If you want to develop deep expertise in something, develop it in something that won't make you more expensive to satisfy.

Become a connoisseur of free things: sunsets, birdsong, public domain blues recordings, the way light filters through leaves.

Or become expert in something productive, where your refined judgment actually creates value rather than just consuming it. Learn to distinguish good code from great code, or compelling prose from merely competent prose, and you've developed expertise that pays dividends rather than extracting them.

The trap of connoisseur-ship is that it disguises consumption as cultivation. You end up poorer in money and narrower in the range of things that can make you happy, but you get to feel like you've achieved something meaningful.

The lesson here is simple: be very careful about what you let yourself get good at noticing. Every distinction you learn to perceive is a new way for the world to fail your standards.

The critic's eye is a curse. Better to stay a little ignorant, a little undiscerning, a little easier to please. The man who can enjoy an Aldi wine and a fast food burger has access to pleasures that the refined palate has permanently foreclosed.

That kind of effortless enjoyment is worth protecting.

If you're young, or if you've somehow preserved your capacity for unselfconscious enjoyment, guard it fiercely.

Refined taste looks like elevation from the outside, and even on the inside it can feel like expanding. But it's actually a narrowing. Every palate you develop is a menu shrinking.

The happiest readers I know haven't built an identity around Proust. The happiest drinkers I know cannot distinguish a Burgundy from a Bordeaux. The happiest programmers I know use whatever works without agonizing about whether something might work better.

They are richer in experience than any connoisseur, even if their experiences are individually less exquisite. They read whatever looks interesting at the airport bookstore. They drink whatever their hosts are serving. They use whichever tool loads fastest.

The enthusiast might not be as refined as the connoisseur. But they have a good deal more fun."]]></description>
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    <title>The Real Reason Levi’s Jackets Have 2 Lines On The Front. - YouTube</title>
    <dc:date>2024-09-15T23:22:53+00:00</dc:date>
    <link>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eP9iXl6m5tM</link>
    <dc:creator>robertogreco</dc:creator><description><![CDATA["The Prologue Denim Jacket V2 and Chapter 1 Jeans are here! Sign up for the newsletter at https://theironsnail.us so I can tell you when they are live! 

Denim jackets are one of my favorite things in the world. Beautiful raw denim, selvedge denim, Japanese denim, whatever your fancy -- there is one! Today we are diving into Levi's denim jackets (and briefly, my jeans and jackets) and exploring why they became less comfortable over time, what happened to pleats, what a rivet is, and all that Cali goodness Levi's is most known for. It's almost FALL baby, time to find the best jackets! 

Jackets we looked at today:

The Prologue V2: https://theironsnail.us/collections/o...

The Levi's 557, from around 1965
The Levi's 507xx, from around 1960
The Levi's 506xx, from around 1947
The Lee 101-j, from around 1958
The Wrangler 111mj, from around 1956"]]></description>
<dc:subject>levis denim history jackets theironsnail michaelkristy 2024 lee wrangler carhart workclothes starwars westerns cowboys toystory</dc:subject>
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    <title>The Reason Jeans Are Still Blue. - YouTube</title>
    <dc:date>2022-05-05T13:38:44+00:00</dc:date>
    <link>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=geZrI1PKR4E</link>
    <dc:creator>robertogreco</dc:creator><description><![CDATA["Oh Levi's jeans. How famous you've become my boy. Everybody loves you. But why oh why are you BLUE! Why do you go with so many outfits? Why do you get lighter? 

From Japanese Denim to American denim to selvedge to raw denim is love and denim is law. I never know what to write in descriptions."]]></description>
<dc:subject>michaelkristy denim indigo jeans clothing history dyes glvo theironsnail</dc:subject>
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<item rdf:about="https://99percentinvisible.org/episode/blue-jeans-articles-of-interest-5/">
    <title>Blue Jeans: Articles of Interest #5 - 99% Invisible</title>
    <dc:date>2021-11-21T02:56:05+00:00</dc:date>
    <link>https://99percentinvisible.org/episode/blue-jeans-articles-of-interest-5/</link>
    <dc:creator>robertogreco</dc:creator><description><![CDATA["For the most part, we tend to keep our clothes relatively clean and avoid spills and rips and tears. But denim is so hard-wearing and hard-working that it just kind of amasses more and more signs of wear. So you can learn a lot from observing an old pair of blue jeans.

For Denim, Avery Trufelman spoke with her friend, artist and curator Lukaza Branfman-Verissimo; Tracey Panek, the corporate historian at Levi Strauss and Company; Lynn Downey, a biographer of Levi Strauss and the former Levis corporate historian; Ada Kong, the toxics manager at Greenpeace East Asia; Emma McClendon associate curator of costume at The Fashion Institute of Technology; Ulrich Simpson, owner of the small independent denim brand UBI-IND."]]></description>
<dc:subject>jeans clothing plastic plastics denim fabric clothes 2018 averytrufelman environment levis history indigo fashion mendng repair slow small consumerism consumption labor cotton fabrics</dc:subject>
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    <title>Denim Repairs &amp; Alterations For Jeans Manchester London England</title>
    <dc:date>2015-09-08T07:12:56+00:00</dc:date>
    <link>http://www.thedenimdoctor.co.uk/</link>
    <dc:creator>robertogreco</dc:creator><dc:subject>denim mending repair glvo denimdoctor sewing repairing</dc:subject>
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<item rdf:about="http://putthison.com/post/106520737133/a-little-diy-wabi-sabi-whereas-most-of-us-value">
    <title>Put This On • A Little DIY Wabi Sabi Whereas most of us value...</title>
    <dc:date>2015-01-07T05:12:54+00:00</dc:date>
    <link>http://putthison.com/post/106520737133/a-little-diy-wabi-sabi-whereas-most-of-us-value</link>
    <dc:creator>robertogreco</dc:creator><description><![CDATA[[via: https://twitter.com/mattthomas/status/552690009028198402 ]

"A Little DIY Wabi Sabi

Whereas most of us value things that are perfect and enduring, wabi sabi is the Japanese worldview that sees beauty in imperfection, impermanence, and incompleteness. Things such as a slightly lopsided vase, a shirt that’s missing a button, or an old, wooden desk that’s a little too dry. It’s believed that by recognizing the beauty in such things, we can better appreciate the natural cycle of life — from growth to decay to eventually death. 

Jonathan Lukacek — the very talented blogger behind Bandanna Almanac — is certainly familiar with the concept. He’s an American living in Japan, having stayed there after studying abroad for college. He’s also an inveterate thrifter who likes to collect garments with a lot character (rather than things that happen to be rare or hold value). In other words, “things that tell a story,” as he put it to me. 

Seen above are some of the creative ways he’s repaired his vintage finds. There’s a pair of jeans with pocket bags made from cut-up bandannas; a dirty collar of a denim shirt made new again through some more bandanna cloth; an old Five Brothers flannel with a slightly askew internal pocket (made with just the right amount of pattern matching); a denim jacket with blanket lining on the outside of the coat; and finally, some decorative sashiko stitching on the collar of an old chambray shirt. 

Everything was done with fabrics that Jonathan has either thrifted or found over the years. Some repairs he did himself; others he did in collaboration with his good friend Narita at Brown Tabby (a vintage repair shop in Japan). All of it is awesome — especially if you’ve ever appreciated anything at a thrift store or flea market, or even the designer lines that are inspired by such things (e.g. Blue Blue Japan, Kapital, and Visvim). 

You can see more of Jonathan’s work at his Instagram account. He also occasionally sells things at Etsy and eBay."]]></description>
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<item rdf:about="http://submittedforyourperusal.com/2012/11/03/repair-your-own-jeans/">
    <title>Repair Your Own Jeans | Submitted For Your Perusal</title>
    <dc:date>2015-01-07T05:04:40+00:00</dc:date>
    <link>http://submittedforyourperusal.com/2012/11/03/repair-your-own-jeans/</link>
    <dc:creator>robertogreco</dc:creator><description><![CDATA[[via: https://twitter.com/mattthomas/status/552690009028198402 ]

"[video embedded: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NXL0X193HDw ]

The white patch thing is one of Vlieseline’s many iron-on interfacings but I’m not sure which one.  More information — including a link to order a free repair kit — can be found at the Nudie Jeans website.

Jeans, like leaves in the fall, are at their most beautiful just before they disintegrate. This guy’s got the right idea: [image]"]]></description>
<dc:subject>matthomas jeans denim mending 2012 sewing beausage repair slothes clothing fixing repairing</dc:subject>
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<item rdf:about="http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052970204542404577157290201608630.html?mod=WSJ_Magazine_LEFTSecondStories">
    <title>Made Better in Japan - WSJ.com</title>
    <dc:date>2012-02-20T06:54:10+00:00</dc:date>
    <link>http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052970204542404577157290201608630.html?mod=WSJ_Magazine_LEFTSecondStories</link>
    <dc:creator>robertogreco</dc:creator><description><![CDATA["For decades, Japan simply imported the wares of foreign cultures, but recession has led to invention. The country has begun creating the finest American denim, French cuisine and Italian espresso in the world. Now is the time to visit."

"During the robust economy of the '80s, Japan's exports ruled, and the country would import the best that money could buy from the rest of the globe, including Italian chefs and French sommeliers. Which made Japan an haute bourgeoisie heaven where luxury manufacturers from the West expected skyrocketing sales forever.

But now 20-plus years of recession have killed that dream. Louis Vuitton sales are plummeting, and magnums of Dom Pérignon are no longer being uncorked at a furious pace. That doesn't mean the Japanese have turned away from the world. They've just started approaching it on their own terms, venturing abroad and returning home with increasingly more international tastes and much higher standards…"

[See also Stateside: http://www.nytimes.com/2012/02/19/magazine/adam-davidson-craft-business.html ]]]></description>
<dc:subject>daikisuzuki engineeredgarments hyperspecialization hospitality hotels apprenticeships tiny small quintessence shuzokishida restaurants kansai tokyo hitoshitsujimoto realmccoy's nylon magazines jeans craft coffee denim detail perfection food fashion lifestyle economics luxury japan scale</dc:subject>
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